Saturday, April 11, 2015

Converting to Demountable Dies


I’ve made many die designs over quite a few years.  Now, I’m pretty “set in my ways” about a favorite design.  Everyone’s shop setup is different so the information I post about what works for me will need modification to suit other situations.

The subject of die making and die using is a bit complicated and I’m not sure there is a really good beginning point so I’ll just jump in somewhere and see where it goes.

Mostly, I use dies to create special billets which will be worked further by hand to create a product.  These are closed dies with top and bottom faces or cavities.  The die serves to insure the results are self-similar and that the work progresses quickly.  For production work I use my dies mostly with the power hammer.  

The die making process, I find to be really interesting and enjoyable.  The learning extended over about 15 years and a lot of things I tried didn’t work out.  Gradually, I have converted almost all the early die designs to the demountable type I make today.

I think, rather loosely, about the die system as having these parts:

1. The object-forming components.  Rather flat face dies are for texturing surfaces and negative space faces form 3-dimensional objects.

2. The spring mechanism.  This carries the top die too meet the bottom die in a proper position then returns the top die to the starting position.  I make this connection demountable.  In building the die this convenience aids adjusting the top die to the correct registration with the bottom die.  Thereafter, it allows redressing of the die faces as needed.

3. The platform.  The frame to which the forming components and the spring mechanism are attached.

4. The die carriage.  The platform seats here when being used. It assures the degree of constraint of position required yet is quickly released for change of dies.

I described the dual-tang carriage I use with my power hammer previously.


In the next installment I’ll show how I usually build a demountable closed die today.  Later, I’ll go more into how I use the hydraulic forging press to make the object-forming components.

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Easy on the …


I suppose almost  everyone is familiar with the phrase “easy on the eyes.”   This is considered a compliment meaning someone or something is  pleasing to look at it.

I think I got the extension of that concept from listening to a Roy Underhill woodworking broadcast in which he said something like “easy on the hands is easy on the eye.”  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Underhill

He was stressing how attention to sanding and other surface preparation which resulted in a pleasant tactile sensation also translated to an appealing visual appreciation.

I tucked that tip away somewhere and some years later I attended a blacksmith demonstration where the demonstrator described how the same rule was brought  home to him.  As I recall he was displaying at a craft show and had some items for sale done using traditional blacksmith techniques.  He observed as a woman picked up a piece and examined it and remarked, “Oh, that feels nasty.”  Immediately he could see he would not make that sale.  He was a smart fellow and already a competent smith.  He then investigated how he could create a finished surface which would feel sensuous and match the visual appeal he was already able to produce.

This “feel of the surface” was a concept I had never considered.  When I returned to my shop I started exploring my work using this as a criterion of evaluation.  It was quickly apparent that he had discovered something important.  Probably being blind would be really helpful here.  I began feeling nominal stock.  It’s obvious that cold rolled feels a lot different from hot rolled or pickled and oiled.  Hot work with fire scale feels a lot different before it goes into the tumbler than when it comes out.  So on and so forth.

I often spray Minwax polyurethane on work fresh out of the tumbler to prevent rust formation. However, that leaves a peculiar tacky feel which never seems appealing.  It  took some time to figure out what to apply as the finish coat which feels right to me.  There are probably quite a few products which will fill that bill.  The fun is in discovering what works for each artist.  I’m convinced now that how a piece of ironwork feels when carefully examined is as important as how it looks.

Lately, I’ve been really busy and lamenting that I never seem to accomplish everything I set out to do each day.  In a consolation seeking effort I recalled a footnote of history from a more serious time.  I’ll take the liberty of posting this excerpt from the wikipedia article “Account Of The Battle of Shiloh"


Curtained by rain and lit by artillery shells arching above them through the night sky, the fresh troops of Major General Don Carlos Buell's Army of the Ohio bobbed across the Tennessee River on wooden steamboats during the evening of April 6, 1862. On the western bank of the river, at Pittsburg Landing, an angry, confused and terrified mob of Union skulkers sought shelter alongside the bluffs that overlooked the river. That morning, many of these same troops had been routed from their campgrounds near the primitive Methodist meeting house called Shiloh, 2 1/2 miles southwest of the landing, by onrushing Confederate troops led by General Albert Sidney Johnston's onrushing Confederate troops, who were seeking to drive the Union invaders from their stronghold in southwestern Tennessee.

The ensuing battle, the bloodiest single day of fighting yet experienced on the North American continent, had settled by nightfall into an exhausted stalemate, with troops on both sides hunkering down for the night in the vine-choked gullies and brambles that gutted the battlefield. By then, Johnston himself was dead, having bled to death from a bullet wound to the knee, and the badly rattled Confederate high command was unsure what to do next. Some argued for an immediate retreat before the enemy could be reinforced; others wanted to renew the battle at dawn.

The Union commander, however, had no such doubts. Major General Ulysses S. Grant, although admittedly caught by surprise by the Rebels' morning attack, did not envision retreating. With his back against the winding Tennessee River, such a retreat was not an option. Nor was Grant the sort of commander who spooked easily. When one of his staff members, Colonel James B. McPherson, suggested that they consider withdrawing, Grant immediately snapped, 'No, sir, I propose to attack at daylight and whip them.' Already, reinforcements were on the way. Meanwhile, all they could do was wait. Grant tried to catch a few hours' sleep in the shelter of a large oak tree near the landing. But the incessant rain, coupled with the steady throb of pain from his ankle, which had been injured shortly before the battle when his horse fell on it, made sleep an impossibility. The Union commander then relocated to a log cabin on the bluff above the river. But Union surgeons had taken over the cabin for battlefield operations, which consisted mainly of sawing off shattered arms and legs. The screams of the wounded were too much for Grant. 'The sight was more unendurable than encountering the enemy's fire,' Grant recalled in his Personal Memoirs, 'and I returned to my tree in the rain.' It was there that his second-in-command, Maj. Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman, found him later that night, chewing on an ever-present cigar. 'Well, Grant,' said Sherman, 'we've had the devil's own day, haven't we?' 'Yes,' Grant replied, 'lick 'em tomorrow, though.’


I think I’ll adopt that as my mantra - “I’ll lick ‘em tomorrow.”

Monday, March 2, 2015

A Wrought Iron Witch Broom


When I first took up blacksmithing wrought iron scrap was plentiful.  Many people were bringing old iron to the local scrapyard and getting cash in return.  Farms in the outlying areas had an abundance of iron implements in various states of deterioration.  At the scrapyard the collection was being cut up into manageable size pieces for loading in the trucks which transported it to larger steel recycling centers.

The scrap yard I frequented was a two-man operation.  I got to know both of them pretty well.  I could come and go as I pleased and we had a casual relationship in which I took what I wanted and gave all my scrap to them.  Usually no money changed hands.

I picked up quite a bit of old wrought iron from wagon tires and other agricultural machinery. And, on the other end of the spectrum, I picked up a lot of harrow tine, hay rake and spring stock in the tool steel category.

As it turned out I still have most of that stock.  I found that a little tool steel goes a long way and I almost never forged the old wrought iron.

On the few occasions when I worked with the wrought iron I learned the necessity of forging at a high heat.  That lesson was probably worth all the collecting.  If the wrought iron is worked to cold it delaminates and forms what I call a mop or, more colorfully, a witches broom.  The end of the bar sort of unravels and goes in all directions.  This can be corrected by forge welding if the smith has the skill.

I believe this behavior of wrought iron is well known to anyone with some experience but I was unable to find documentation of it on the web with the exception of this link.



I’m fascinated by these details which at one time must have been common knowledge and yet have left little evidence in the technical records.

The stereotypical witch broom was a birch broom or a broom made from similar fiber.

Monday, February 23, 2015

Blacksmithing Articles

I imagine that everyone who is interested already knows about this old link.  However, I also recall being told, more than once, not to assume what everyone else knows.  So, here is the link to some great archival information.

Thursday, February 12, 2015

An Old Helve Hammer


The details of this story large escape me today but I’ll try to reconstruct it.  The time is shortly before the Seattle ABANA conference.

A person approached me about checking out an old power hammer.  I met him once earlier and he learned I was interested in blacksmithing.  He was wanting to dispose of some things on his property.  I agreed to check out his accumulation including the blacksmithing machine he had described   After inspection I concluded it was not something which I was interested in buying.  It was an intriguing artifact in good condition so it might be valuable in the eyes of the right beholder.  I took a few images of it and said I would take them to the Seattle conference and show them and see if I could find an interested party.

As it turned out I spent those days of the Seattle conference in the University of Washington hospital sick as a poisoned pup and had no opportunity to find a buyer for that helve hammer.

I have been clearing out some computer files and tonight I came across these four images.  I’m guessing that this is apiece of agricultural equipment associated with harvesting.  The hammer and the grinding wheel would be useful in maintaining sharp blades on site.  The belt drive power could have come from either a steam or internal combustion engine.


I’m betting some knowledgeable person will find these images interesting.  I specifically noted the detachable chain.  It is found on a lot of old agricultural equipment and I got personal acquaintance with it when I repaired my Trenton-Fisher vise.  John Deere still supplied it but in a more modern version.




Tuesday, February 10, 2015

One Way to Make a Wheat Motif

Several months ago a reader asked a question about how I made the wheat shown in an image.  I missed finding that question but it has come up before so this will serve as a generic answer.

First, I have made the wheat motif several different ways at different scales.  The stock material has ranged from 12 gauge black annealed wire up to 9/16” round.  For most of my small wheat sculptures I use 1/4” round rod.

Secondly, I have made wheat in a lot of different ways but I’ll show the most common one which I call the three-fold twist method.

The diameter of stock used will have a great influence on the numbers of spikelets (seeds) in the finished head.  This link shows a head with a total of 18 spikelets.


The ones I make usually have 16-18.  The length of stock cut will determine how many twists can be made from that size material.  For 1/4” round I’ll figure about 4.5” to 5.5” x four to get the workpiece length.  If you don’t want the heads to come out exactly the same vary the length a bit.

I cut my blanks cold with a hack in the hydraulic press so the ends are tapered. As a rule I’ll probably cut enough to make about 20 heads on a single production run.  A center finder rule is used and I mark the center point with a presto pen.  I heat the center point and bend it 180º and hammer it shut.  Incidentally, I use the torch for most of  this entire project when using small stock.  Note, the images I’m using were taken on different runs so there is some inconsistency in them.

I’ll quickly make a simple bending jig to accommodate the size and length stock being worked to make things go fast.  This facilitates making the second bends of the folding process.

Approximately 24" of 1/4" round and bent 180º at center is placed in the second-bend jig.  This illustration could be misleading as the stem is not ordinarily added until the folds are completed.
The three-fold blank ready to add stem.
Next, I weld the stem to use as a handle.  Sometimes I weld it on the closed loop end and sometimes on the other depending on how I want the finished top of the head to look.  The closed loop free is usual.  In any case the original rod ends must be tacked to their partner to twist properly.

A stem has been welded to capture all four segments.
The second-bend jig and the custom socket wrenches.
The stem end is clamped in the vise and with torch heat the right hand loop is twisted counter clockwise and the left side clockwise.  Usually I work back and forth keeping the twists evenly paired. In an actual seed head the kernels alternate and that can be accomplished by bending the pairs sideways a bit to get a mirror image out of register.  I made a simple socket wrench to make the twist easy.
Twisting with torch heat and keeping twist evenly aligned.
I make sure the twist pairs close tightly against each other by clamping face-side-down in the vise.  The face side is the one with the kernels pointing up and out.
Face side before and after twisting.
I add a length of filler metal such as a nail or 10 gauge black annealed wire or a piece of 3/16” rod.  Anything that will mostly fill the center gap will work.  The goal is to tie the two twist pieces together, prevent MIG splatter from going through to the face side, and add a little center mass.
Clamped in vise back-side-up with filler metal in the center valley.
Filler metal welded to "kernles."
When all the pieces reach this state it is time for the coal forge.  The head is heated and swaged in hydraulic press in a die made for the appropriate stock.
Press swage die for 1/4" round stock wheat.
Next I’ll hand forge the taper of the top and texture it with a handled chisel under the treadle hammer, or on a die in the forging press or on another die in the power hammer.

Tapered top end ready for texturing.
The leaves are usually forged on a power hammer combination forming and texturing die with 1/4” square stock run through on-the-diamond.  I usually work about 30” pieces then hack it into approximately 6” lengths. The finished pieces are run through the tumbler, assembled, brass brushed and coated.

Finished wheat.

I’ve probably sold more of this botanical motif than any of the other ones I make.  This is hard red winter wheat country.

Monday, February 9, 2015

The Bucket Rack


Continuing the theme of opening up workspace and improving the studio organization I’ll write a bit about the bucket rack.  I added this storage space about eight years ago and it has worked out pretty well.

The buckets filled with short steel stock.
The back side faces north.  Forsythia has spread across that side now so they are not as visible today.

Now the buckets are sheltered from wet weather by the trash bag envelope.
There are twenty nine 5-gallon plastic buckets resting in a frame made from 1” square tube.  The buckets lay at about a 30º angle for good visibility of the contents and easy loading and unloading.  In the beginning I used them to store short drops, tool steel, harrow tines, railroad spike and other small items.
As winter approached I put each bucket inside a large trash bag which I could tie shut to keep out rain and snow.


I’ve decided that I no longer need most of what the buckets now hold so I’m going to dispose of those things and use them to store tools and dies which are only used occasionally.  I have a spreadsheet which details the contents of each bucket.  As long as I keep that document current it should be easy to find anything I need.