Variations

I received a phone call a few days ago to enquire about a chess set image on my web site.  I think it was actually this image on the blog.

http://persimmonforge.blogspot.com/2011/01/inventory-time.html

At the time the set was completed I had gotten so busy I couldn’t take on new work and had no time to deal with updating the web site so I stopped posting new work images there and decided to post images of my work on the blog from time to time.

The call caused me to think how I would approach a request to make another set.  I called the set pictured “Celtic Chess Set” and researched some celtic material for inspiring images.  The Celtic theme is image-rich and many other approaches could have worked.  However, when I approach another such project my inclination would be to seek a new theme rather than try to extend this one.

I make certain smaller items for gallery sale which have proved to be popular.  In those cases it is worthwhile to make jigs or dies which give a regularity of form to those pieces and decrease consumer cost.  There is always some variation from piece to piece as that is just the nature of iron hand work.  But it is more satisfying to me to push the variation so its intentionality is obvious.

I’ve already spent some time and work designing other chess set tables and boards.  I like the idea, used in this set, that the board is actually the top of the box which holds the board pieces.  This set was not designed for portability and is rather heavy.  A table designed for breakdown and transport could be interesting.

My subconscious is probably now grinding away on a new chess set - a new theme.  Perhaps Native American could work. 

 http://www.persimmonforge.com/

Back to the Mine

Yesterday Scott and I made a trip back to the Oklahoma coal mine and brought home just over a ton of smithing coal.  Thankfully, it is only a once-a-year or so event although it is a rather pleasant break to make that day trip into less traveled country.

If we leave around eight we can arrive at the mine before noon and be back home before four.  That’s the way it worked out and Scott still had enough energy to get all the coal transferred to the bin.

I had scheduled the trip date partially because I was anticipating a really hot day, too hot to forge, but 1.3” of rain in the night brought some coolness which was a nice surprise.  Another surprise was not seeing a single coal truck as we approached the mine.  I can usually count of encountering a half dozen or so on the last three mile leg of the trip.  This time there were none.  The scale operator told us the reason -  the trucks were all busy hauling wheat.  I hope the harvest is a good one and the silos end up as full as my coal bin.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

The Covered Bridge Mailbox

When we moved to our home in 1981 I built a wood mailbox from left over siding material, covered the top with shingle scraps and mounted it on a piece of scrap I beam set in concrete.  It worked well until this spring when the hinges came loose because of wood rot.  I first attempted a repair but the deterioration was too extensive so I bit the bullet and took time out to make a new steel one.

After looking through the available material I selected a deeply pitted steel plate for the top and some rusty 14 gauge sheet and water jet slat scrap for the box.  The only salvageable parts were the brass numerals. 

I forged a door handle and used torch heat to bend the box and roof folds to form a form which looks a little like a covered bridge.  As a child I often went with my parents to our local covered bridge.  My artist mother painted a picture of it covered with snow sometime in the 1960’s.

The door is hinged more securely now with a welded piece of continuous hinge and the top latches securely with a small rare earth magnet.  It is pretty close to water tight so it won’t be a likely habitat for wasps or ants.  If it lasts as long as the last one that should do the trick.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

The Blacksmith’s Solution

A few weeks back I needed to make several ground spikes for a rain gauge mount and I ran out of 3/8” square stock.  I checked and had an abundance of 1/2” round so I decided to use some of it up in this project.  If the original plans called for drawing tapers on 10” sections of 3/8” square how long should the 1/2 round stock be cut to be equivalent?

Rather than get out the calculator I have a “Mass Equivalents” spreadsheet set up so I can just enter the dimensions of the original 3/8” stock to see the total volume then experiment with guesses about the 1/2” length until the result is close enough.  In this case it looked like 7 1/8” of 1/2” round would do the trick.

I cut the required number of pieces of stock and with coal fire heat my assistant forged the spikes using a 3/8” stop in the power hammer to establish the shape of the end without the taper then drew out the remainder to a long square taper.  There is no surprise here - the spikes look essentially the same regardless of whether 3/8 square or 1/2” round was the material used.

Moving metal is the blacksmith’s power and joy.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

Bill Davis Scroll Pliers

I make a line of garden ironwork items which use textured rod as vines and the ends are tapered and curled to a tight circle at the tips for visual appeal and for safety.  The tiny curl is easy to make with small round nose pliers which I got from Bill Davis.  He is active in the Saltfork Craftsmen group. http://www.saltforkcraftsmen.org/  Bill runs ad add in the newsletter -  “6" Army Surplus round nose pliers, Make good scroll pliers for small items. $5.00 each plus shipping.”  The contact information is:

Bill and Diana Davis

580-549-6824

e-mail diana.copperrose@gmail.com

When I bought five pair I modified four of them to angle the tips to different angles by torch heating and bending.  The 15º, 30º, 45º and 90º angles are quite helpful.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

Power Hammer Die Saddles

On April 16, 2012 I described how I discovered that I didn’t really need the inner walls of the die tang sockets.

http://persimmonforge.blogspot.com/2012/04/die-tang-socket-redesign.html

Recently I have made another modification to the die system by adding a saddle similar to the ones I use on the hydraulic forging press.  The saddle can either fit over a piece of flat bar with two tangs or two pieces with tangs can be welded to each side of the saddle.  I haven’t decided if there is an advantage to one way or the other.

I’ve been very satisfied with the keyed drop sleeves as a mechanism for retaining the dies.  They allow a degree of freedom which reduces overall mechanical strain in the system while, especially with the saddles, holding the dies in place and they accommodate quick die changes.

The four camera images show how the system worked before I added the saddles.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

My Single Burner Forge

I needed a small gas forge at my primary workstation by the acorn table.  It would be an alternative to using the torch for certain types of small work.  I already have three other gas forges and each is too bulky for this already crowded area.  Moreover I didn’t feel I had the time to make it myself so I called on my blacksmith friend, Matt Wills, who has a great deal more experience making these forges.  Naturally, he did a masterful job with the construction and it works great.

I added some features, adjustable work stop, pickup handle, and lift tab on the front door to suit my specific needs.  It looked better before I added my less masterful amendments.

My Sketchup illustrations are not precise, especially the Mig contact tip and the milled aluminum cylinder into which it fits, but this should give a general idea of the construction.

As I anticipated, it is a helpful addition and is often a less expensive alternative to heating with acetylene.

Matt is very active with the Central States Metal Artisans http://gpba.abana-chapter.com/  and can be contacted at  <handforged@sbcglobal.net>.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

Bandsaw Stops

  When I wrote the post on kerf bending, 6/16/2011, I failed to include mentioning how using a piece of tubing cut to proper length fits over the stop bolt on my bandsaw and makes the notching easy and fast.

I used this time saving technique while making the rectangular frames for the chop saw flip stand.  Instead of cutting four separate pieces I marked the linear sequence of elements (15”- 34”- 15”- 34”) on a piece of 98” long square tube and used a tube sleeve stop with the band saw to cut the kerf through three walls which left the back wall intact.  That made it very easy to make 90º bends at the kerfs to form the rectangle and complete it with only one MIG weld.  After squaring, it is ready for assembly.

I use a similar “notch and bend” technique when making the solid bar bridges for fire grates, feet for fire backs and several other jig and template projects. 

http://www.persimmonforge.com/