Pedal Hammer Seat Bracket Modification

I have been working on some small botanical elements, grape leaves, sunflower centers and such using the pedal hammer and veining tools.  The machine I use frequently is a prototype model and had a old style seat bracket which didn’t allow enough foot clearance when sitting down and getting up.  Every time I sat down and wiggled my left foot through the narrow space I would think, “I should fix that.”  However, that thought was immediately followed by, “That will take thirty minutes and be a hassle.”  So the problem lingered until yesterday.

I finally got an adjustable wrench and took the seat and bracket off, made two cuts and two welds and put it back on in thirty minutes.  A big improvement.  So the lesson, for me, is when building the bracket try to keep a shoe length distance between the anvil post and the seat bracket frame.

Now every time I sit down I’ll think, “I should have done that two years ago.”

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Pedal Hammer Seat Bracket Modification

I have been working on some small botanical elements, grape leaves, sunflower centers and such using the pedal hammer and veining tools.  The machine I use frequently is a prototype model and had a old style seat bracket which didn’t allow enough foot clearance when sitting down and getting up.  Every time I sat down and wiggled my left foot through the narrow space I would think, “I should fix that.”  However, that thought was immediately followed by, “That will take thirty minutes and be a hassle.”  So the problem lingered until yesterday.

I finally got an adjustable wrench and took the seat and bracket off, made two cuts and two welds and put it back on in thirty minutes.  A big improvement.  So the lesson, for me, is when building the bracket try to keep a shoe length distance between the anvil post and the seat bracket frame.

Now every time I sit down I’ll think, “I should have done that two years ago.”

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

The Pedal Hammer at Pieh Tool

Recently I visited the Pieh Tool website and was looking over some tools and found the page relating to the pedal hammer I developed. The tool is available there for a try out. That would be handy for those in the southwest. http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/d1519.html

Pieh tool is located in Camp Verde, Arizona near Sedona.

Gordon Williams is the resident blacksmithing instructor. I had the pleasure of watching him demonstrate at a BAM conference several years ago. I learned a lot about technique and he also was very entertaining and had several good business tips.

You can find out more information about his classes at

http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/d1460.html.

I use the pedal hammer a lot for striking detail lines in botanicals. The dogwood motif napkin holder pictured is a recent example.

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Pedal Hammer Seat Improvement

Over the summer I started using the pedal hammer in an auxiliary manner and now think I should report it. The one I’m referring to sits right beside my design table. Sometimes I just felt like sitting down for a few minutes while making notes or sketching some drawings so I made a simple angled drawing surface from a piece of angle and 10 gauge sheet that fits where the anvil ordinarily would. It rotates and is very comfortable to use. It is just flat enough to also use as a platform for photographing small items with my digital camera. It should go without saying that, like every other nearly flat surface, it attracts items which gather into piles.

The time sitting there apparently led to some other contemplation and I became aware of the kludge beneath my feet. The seat mounting could be improved a lot. First, the placement of the horizontals and verticals could be shifted to leave the space where a leg swings through more open.

Next, the seat bracket could be fitted with one or two cam locks to replace the locking bolts which would allow for quick changes in seat height or distance.

Also the vertical could be changed from square tube to round to allow rotation. Now that I’ve thought of how nice those changes might be all I have to do is find the time and energy to actually make the changes.

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Foot Rest Assembly

I find a foot rest separate from the pedals to be useful. This can be designed a number of ways to suit the user.

1. Top Segment:
Cut 2” of 2” square tube.

2. Remove one wall of the tube to form a “U”.

3. Drill a 9/16” hole in one side and weld a 1/2” hex bolt over it to accommodate the locking bolt.

4. Cut 10.5” of 1/4” x 2” Flat Bar to make the Foot Rest Side Plates (FR2), (2).

5. Mark 6” from the ends and heat along this line and bend 90º to form the “L”.

6. Weld the L’s to each side of the Top Segment.

7. Cut 3” if 1/4” x 2” flat bar for the gusset stock.

8. Cut the gusset stock on the diagonal to make two gussets.

9. Weld each Gusset (FR3) to reinforce the right angle Foot Plate bend.

10. Insert the Locking hex bolt to complete the assembly.

Cutting/Purchase List:

FR1. Foot Rest Top (1), 2” of 2” Square Tube.

FR2. Foot Rest Side Plate (2), 10.5” of 1/4” x 2” Flat Bar.

FR3. Foot Rest Gusset (2), 3” if 1/4” x 2” flat bar.

FR4. Locking Bolt/Nut, 1/2” x 1.5”.

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Seat Bracket Assembly

Assemble the Seat Mount:

The mount can be constructed a number of ways as long as accommodation is made for vertical and horizontal adjustment with sufficient strength.

1. Drill the appropriate bolt holes in the Seat Bracket Plate.
2. Drill the hole for the locking bolt in the Seat Bracket Sleeve.
3. Weld the hex nut for the locking bolt over the hole in the Seat Bracket Sleeve.
4. Weld the Seat Bracket Sleeve to the Seat Bracket Plate.
5. Bolt the Seat Bracket Plate to the bottom of the Padded Seat.

Assemble the Seat “L” Bracket:

1. Weld the SB4a Horizontal Leg, Square Tube to the SB4b Vertical Leg, Square Tube at a 90º angle.

Assemble the Seat Stand-off Bracket:
1. Drill the hole for the locking bolt in the SB5a Vertical Sleeve
2. Weld the nut for the locking bolt over the hole and insert the bolt.
3. Weld the SB5b Horizontal Leg, Square Tube to the SB5c Vertical Leg, Square Tube at a 90º angle.
4. Weld the Vertical sleeve with locking nut to the horizontal segment at a 90º angle.

Seat/Anvil Mounting Sleeve:

1. Weld the Seat/Anvil Sleeve with locking bolt to the Anvil Post.

Cutting/Purchase List:

PS1. Padded Seat, 17” width x 16” depth x 10” height, Purchased.

SB2. Seat Bracket Plate, 1/4” x 6” x 6”, four holes
SB2a. Seat Bracket Hex Bolts (4), 5/16” x 1” with lock washers.

SB3. Seat Bracket Sleeve, 3” of 2” square Tube, (Drill Locking Bolt 9/16” Hole).
SB3a Locking Hex Bolt/Nut, 1/2” x 1.5”.

SB4. Seat “L” Bracket
SB4a Horizontal bar, 12” of 1.5” Square Tube.
SB4b Vertical Post, 12” of 1.5” Square Tube

SB5. Seat Standoff Bracket
SSBS Seat Post Sleeve, 6” of 2” Square Tube.
Locking Bolt/Nut, 1/2” x 1.5”.
SSBa Seat Standoff Horizontal Bar, 5” of 1.5” Square Tube.
SB5c Seat Standoff Vertical Post, 10” of 1.5” Square Tube.

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Hammer Assembly

1. Drill the 5/16” hole near the top of the hammer tube on the back side for the safety chain.

2. the Hammer Tube (H1) to the Hammer Face Plate (H2). The tube is centered on the platte and positioned with it front sets one inch back from the front edge of the plate. This must be a continuous weld bead that is “water tight” so molten lead will not leak when it is poured.

Consider using 3" square solid or fabricating a solid steel hammer head as an alternative.

3. Drill the 3/4” holes in the Swing Arm Mounting Plates (H3) for the Swing Arm Bolts (H5) in proper position (3.5” above top of hammer tube and 3.5” above the bottom of hammer tube.

4. Weld the Swing Arm Mounting Plates (H3) to the Hammer Tube (H1).

5. Place the assembled unit on a scale and add lead pieces until the scale registers 25 pounds. Melt the lead and pour into the hammer tube. (H8) (CAUTION! Observe appropriate safety precautions.)

6. Cut open one link of the Safety Chain (H7) and slip it throught the hole (step 1 above) and weld it closed.

7. Attach the Hammer to the Swing arm with the Swing Arm/Hammer Bolts (H5 & H6).

8. Adjust the turnbuckle to

Cut/Purchase List:

H1 Hammer Tube (1), 10” of 3” Square Tube (.1875 wall).

H2 Hammer Face Plate (1) - 6” of 1” x 4” mild steel Flat Bar.

H3 Swing Arm Mounting Plates, (2), 10” of 1/4” x 4” Flat Bar.

H4 Lead Mass Fill (1) sufficient to bring the total hammer head weight to 25 pounds.

H5 Swing Arm/Hammer Mount Hex Bolts, (4), 3/4” x 6” Grade 8.

H6 Swing Arm/Hammer Mount Hex Nuts, (4), 3/4” Nylox.

H7 Safety Chain (1), 14” of 1/4” Proof Coil Grade 30 Chain, Purchased.

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Lug Bracket Assembly

1. Cut 6” of 1/4” x 4” Falt Bar to make the Upper (ULBP) and Lower (LLBP) Lug Bracket Plates (2).

2. Gang Drill the Four 5/16” corner Holes in the Plates. Make sure the holes are wider than the swing arm bar.

3. Cut 4” of 1/2” x 2” Flat Bar to make the Lower Lug Bracket Tang (LLBT).

4. Chamfer the Lower corners of the tang (LLBT).

5. Drill the 3/4” axle hole in the lower end of the tang (LLBT).

6. Weld the Tang (LLBT) to the lower plate.

7. Assemble over the Lower Swing Arm Bar in the proper position. When the center of the Upper Yoke Axle Bolt is 5” from the back edge of the Hammer Swing Arm Mounting Plates. Also check to see the Hammer-Anvil Gap is about 10”.

Cut List:

ULBP. Upper Lug Bracket Plate, 1/4” x 4” x 6” Falt Bar.

LLBP. Lower Lug Bracket Plate, 1/4” x 4” x 6” Falt Bar.

LLBT. Lower Lug Bracket Tang, 1/2” x 2” x 4” Flat Bar.

LBHB Lug Bracket Hex Bolts, 5/16” x 1.5”, (4).

LBHN. Lug Bracket Nylox Hex Nuts, 5/16”, (4).

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Swing Arm Assembly

1. Cut the Upper (UL)and Lower (LL) Swing Arms (2) 1/4” x 2” x 18.5” 1095 Flat Spring Steel

2. Cut the Pipe Bearings (4) 2.75” of 3/4” 3/4” SC40 Standard Black Pipe

3. Drill a 3/16” oil hole in the center of each Bearing.

4. Weld a bearing with oil hole up at each end of the flat steel springs.

5. It i.d. of the pipe bearing is .84” and the diameter of the Grade 8 Bolt Axle is .75” so a Copper sheet bushing can be consider to snug the fit.

6. The Mounting bracket gaps are 3” so the 2.75” bearing width allows insertion of the 1/8” thick nylon washers.

Cut List:

USA. Upper Swing Arm:
UL. Upper Leaf, 1/4” x 2” x 18.5” Flat Spring Steel
ULFB. Front Bearing, 2.75” of 3/4” SC40 Standard Black Pipe, o.d. 1.050”, i.d. .8424”, wall .133”
ULBB. Back Bearing 2.75” of 3/4” 3/4” SC40 Standard Black Pipe

LSA. Lower Swing Arm:
LL. Lower Leaf, 1/4” x 2” x 18.5” Flat Spring Steel
LLFB. Front Bearing 2.75” of 3/4” 3/4” SC40 Standard Black Pipe
LLBB. Back Bearing 2.75” of 3/4” 3/4” SC40 Standard Black Pipe

SANW. Nylon Washers
Copper sheet bushing is optional.

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Spring System Assembly

SS1 Place a hitch pin in one end hole and slide Spring Pipe Axle SS1 into one of the Spring Axle Bearings BF8.

Slip the Lower Extension Springs onto the ale and feed the free end into the other BF8 bearing and retain with the second hit pin.

Hook the top loops of the lower extension springs to the “J” hooks on the Bottom Spring Mount Bar F3.

Hook the Upper Extension Spring to the Spring Mount Bracket SS5 on the tower then stretch it to attach to the “J” hook on the Spring Mount Post F2.

Cut List:

SS2 Hook Bolt, Round End, 5/16” x 4”, (3) (Purchased)

SS3 Extension Springs (3) 1.5” x 11.5” x 0.135” (Purchased)

SS4 Humpback (Hairpin Hitch pin) Retaining pins (2), .156 wire, 3/4”

SS5 Spring Hook Bracket:

Cut 16” of 1/4” x 1.25” for the Spring Hook Bracket (SS5). Drill a 5/16” hole for the 4” Round End Hook Bolt (SS2). Bend to form the “J” shape. The length allows bending for tension adjustment as desired.

Drill 3/16” through-and-through holes 2” from each end of the pipe to accommodate the hunchback hitch pins (SS4) inside the frame.

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Anvil & Post Assembly

Anvil:

1. Cut 5” of 1” x 5” flat bar to make the Anvil Face (A1a).
2. Cut 2” of 3.5” solid round (tube would work too) to make the Anvil Tang A1b).
3. Center the tang on the bottom of the anvil face and weld it in place.
4. Cut three pieces of 3/4” x 1” flat bar 1” in length to make the Tang Spacers for a snug fit.
5. Mark the 0º, 120º and 240º positions on the perimeter of the tang near the bottom and weld a spacer at each of these positions.

Anvil Post:

1. Cut Anvil Post (AP1) - 37” of 4.5” Schedule 40 pipe or tube..

2. Drift Window - This feature prevents anything from falling to the bottom inside the post. I previously made an special anvil to facilitate drifting. Being right handed I wanted the drift to exit to the right where it would be easy to pick up.

Use the parabolic template to mark the hemi-elipse line in the proper position. In my case it is on the right side. Torch cut the line to create a flange to fold inside the post. Torch heat the base line of the flange and hammer it inward to close off the lower part of the tube and create the window (AP1a). Weld the perimeter as desired or close the gaps with epoxy or a sealant such as silicone caulk.

3. Weld the base of the anvil post to the base plate in proper position and perfectly vertically.

4. Cut the four post braces.

5. Weld the four Anvil Post Braces (AP2) in proper position to further stabilize the post.

6. Cut the Seat Bracket Sleeve.

7. Drill the hole for the locking hex bolt and weld the hex not over the hole. Insert the hex bolt.

8. Weld the Seat Bracket Sleeve (AP3) to the anvil post in the proper position.

9. Cut the Front Flywheel Stop, AP4. 1” x “ square tube.

10. Weld the stop in the proper position.

Anvil-Post Cut List

AP1. Anvil Post (1), 37” of 4.5” i.d. SC40 Standard Black Welded Pipe.
AP1. a Drift Window, torch cut and fold

AP2. Anvil Foot-Post Braces (2), 1” x 1.5 x 12”, square tube.

AP3. Seat Bracket Sleeve, (1), 5 “ of 2” Square tube.
AP3a. Locking Bolt/Nut, 1/2”-13 x 1.5”.

AP4. Front Flywheel Stop, (1), 5.5” x 1.5” square tube.

AP5. Anvil Back Post Brace, 16” of 1.5” Square Tube.

AP7. Anvil Foot Spacers, 1.5” square tube (2)

AP8. Anvil Foot, 3/8” x 3” x 14” (2)

A1. Anvil
A1a. Anvil Face (1), 1” x 5” x 5” flat bar
A1b. Anvil Tang (1), 3.5” x 2” solid round
A1c. Tang Spacers (3), 3/4” x 1” x 1” flat bar

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Turnbuckle Assembly

1. Cut pieces and weld Upper Yoke (TBUY2).

2. Cut pieces and weld Lower yoke (TBLY1).

3. Cut two 7” segments of 3/4” round for the upper and lower Turnbuckle Extensions.

4. Weld the Upper turnbuckle Pipe Extension to the Upper Yoke (in proper position).

5. Weld the Lower turnbuckle Pipe Extension to the Lower Yoke (in proper position).

6. Cut the hooks from both ends of the turnbuckle and save for later use.

7. Assemble the Turnbuckle/Yoke components. Thread a Left hand thread nut on the left hand thread segment of the turnbuckle and another right hand thread nut on the right hand thread segment of the
turnbuckle to serve as lock nuts.

8. Adjust the Thread/Body relation: 2” of thread inside the box and 1” outside the box. The Hole-to-Hole-Centers span should be 29”.

Turnbuckle Cut List:

TBUY2. Upper Yoke:
TB3. Upper Extension, 6.5” of 3/4”, solid round.
TB3a 1/2” Left hand Thread Nut.
TB6. Lug Tang Axle Hex Bolt, 3/4” x 3”, Grade 8, (Purchased).
TB7. Lug Tang Hex Nut, 3/4”, Nylox, (Purchased) .
TB4 Turnbuckle:
TB4. Open Body, Hook and Hook, Turnbuckle, 1/2”-13 x 7.375”, 6 inch take-up, (Purchased)
TB4L 1/2”Left hand Thread Nut , (1), (Purchased).
TB4R 1/2” Right hand Thread Nut, (1), (Purchased).

TBLY1. Lower Yoke:
TB5. Lower Extension, 6.5” of 3/4”, solid round.
TB5a 1/2” Right Hand Thread Nut.
TB8 Flywheel Pintle Post Axle Hex Bolt, 3/4” x 5”, Grade 8 (Purchased).
TB9 Flywheel Pintle Post Nut, 3/4”, Nylox, (Purchased).

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Foot Pedal Assembly

I was able to find used pedals at the scrap yard and bicycle shop but considered fabricating them.

Pedal Arm Shaft, 9” of 5/8” round rod.

Pedal Arm Shaft Collar, 2.5” of 2” round with 5/8” center hole and a set screw hole. After initially adjusting the position for comfortable ergonomics I have never changed the position.

FPA - Foot Pedal Arms, (2) 8” of 1/2” X 1” with 5/8” holes near both ends.

Foot Pedals: FP

Foot Pedal Shafts (2), 6” of 5/8” round with cotter pin hole at one end. Place a pipe bushing or washers to provide a little clearance between the pedal perimeter flat bar and the pedal arms.

Foot Pedal Rectangle ends (2), 1/4” x 1” x 3” with 5/8” center hole.

Foot Pedal Rectangle sides (2), 1/4” x 1” x 4”.

(I think simpler foot plates could be made by cutting a 4" piece of 3" pipe in half lengthwise, I haven't tried it to see how it would feel.)

1/8” x 1.5” cotter pins (2).

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Flywheel Assembly

1. Weld the Flywheel Shaft Collar (F5) into the center hole of the the Flywheel (F1).

2. Center the Flywheel Shaft (F7) in the Flywheel Shaft Collar (F5) and fix with set screws.

3. Weld the Pedal Shaft Collar. (Drill 5/8” hole in proper position.) (F9) to the Flywheel (F1).

4. Screw the pedal Shaft Collar (F9) to the Pedal Shaft (F10) with set screws.

5. Weld the Spring Mount Arm (F4) to the flywheel perimeter in the (proper position).

6. After full assembly and testing the set screw areas can be tack welded for further security.

Cut/Purchase List

F1 Flywheel, Circle, 1/2” thickness x 21” diameter, 3” center hole for shaft collar, Eccentric 5/8” hole for pedal shaft (F10). See drawing.

F2 Top Spring Mount Post, 6” of 1/2” x 1.25” with 5/16” hole at one end.

F3 Bottom Spring Mount Bar, 10” of 1/4” x 1.5’ x 1.5” angle with 5/16” hole drilled at each end (8” apart).

F4 Spring Mount Arm, 11” of 3/4” x 2”. Cut out centered 9/16” x 3.5” deep slot to fit over the flywheel. See drawing for position.

F5 Flywheel Shaft Bushing, 4” of 1.5” i.d. 3” o.d. with 2 set screws.

F6 Turnbuckle Yoke Pintle, 2” of 3/4” Standard Black Welded Pipe.

F7 Flywheel shaft, 1.5” round x 13”.

F8 Pintle Posts (2), 1/2” x 2” x 4”. Round the top corners.

F9 Pedal Shaft Collar with set screws, 1” i.d. pipe or similar to accommodate 5/8” round rod.

F10 Pedal Shaft, 12” of 5/8” Round

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Tower Assembly

Cutting/Purchase List:

T1&2. Upright Post Segment, 49” of 3” x 3” Square Tube.
T3. Backside Flywheel Stop Flange, (1), 3/8” x 2.5” x 3”.
T4. Tower Swing Arm Flanges, (2), 1/2” x 5” x 6”.
T5. Lateral Flanges, 3/8” x 3” x 3”, (2).
T6. Front and Back inferior Flanges, 3/8” x 3” x 6”, (2).
T7. Frame/Swing Arm Hex Nuts (4), 3/4” Nylox (Purchased).
T8. Frame/Swing Arm Hex Bolts (4), 3/4” x 5.5” Grade 8, (Purchased).
T9. Optional Pickup Hook, (1), (Cutoff from Hook-Hook Turnbuckle), (Purchased).
T10. Chain Hook 5/16” x 4” “J” Bolt (1), (Purchased).
T11. Hex Bolts for Bridge (3), 1/2” x 5”, (Purchased).
T12. Hex Nuts for Bridge (3), 1/2”, (Purchased).
T13. Optional Tower Stabilizer, 3/8” x 1.5” x 28” (2).

Assembly:

1. Cut 49” of 3” x 3” square tube.

2. 15” from the top end cut out a 2.25” section on three sides leaving the back side as a hinge.

3. Torch heat along the hinge lines and bend to close the gap

4. Weld to Keep the gap closed and aligned square.

5. Cut the Lateral Flanges, T5, (2), 3” of 3/8” x 3” flat bar.

6. Cut the Front and Back Flanges, T6, (2), 6” of 3/8” x 3” flat bar.

7. Cut the Back Stop Flange, T3, (1), 2.5” x 3”.

8. Gang Drill 5/8” holes 1.5” from one end of the Flanges.

9. Weld the Flanges (T6, T5 & T3) in (proper position).

10. Cut two 6” pieces of 1/2” x 5” flat bar for the Tower Swing Arm Flanges, T4.

11. Gang drill the four sets of 3/4” holes in T4 Flanges (in proper position).

12. Weld the Flanges (T4) in (proper position).

13. Weld the Spring Hook Bracket (SS5) to the back side of the post in the (proper position).

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Bridge Assembly

When the base is complete the tower construction can begin. I found it handy to cut the pieces and lay them out and drill all the bolt holes (slightly oversized on the horizontal beam for easy fit) prior to welding. The tower and bridge are joined by bolts rather than being welded. This allows disassembly so transporting is easier.

Cutting/Purchase List:

B1. Horizontal Frame Beam. (1), 21” of 3” x 3” Square Tube.
B2L & B2R Vertical Frame Posts (2), 25.5” of 3” x 3” Square Tube.
B3. Pillow Block Bearings, (2), (Purchased) McMaster-Carr Part Number 6244K62; Length 7 9/64”, Shaft duimeter 1.5”, width 2 11/64”.
B4. Base Bearing Plates, (2), 1/4” x 6” x 8”
B5. Bearing Base Plate Hex Bolts, (4), 1/2” x 2.5”, (Purchased)
B6. Bearing Base Plate Hex Nuts, (4), 1/2”, (Purchased)

Assembly:

1. Cut two pieces of 25.5” of 3” x 3” Square Tube for the Vertical Posts (B2).
2. Cut 21” of 3” x 3” Square tube for the Horizontal Beam (B1).
3. Drill the two 1/2” Top/Bottom bolt holes and the 1/2” Front/Back bolt hole.
4. Carefully Square and weld the Vertical Posts (B2R & B2L) to the Bridge Post Base Plates (BF6R and BF6L) on the base frame (or optionally omit the plates and weld directly to the side rails).
5. Weld the Horizontal Beam to the two Upright Beams.
6. Cut two 8” pieces of 1/4” x 5” flat bar for the Bearing Base Plates (B4R & B4L.
7. Gang Drill the two 3/8” bolt holes (in proper position).
8. Attach the Pillow Block Bearings (B3) to the Bearing Base Plates (B4R & L) with Hex bolts (B5) and Hex Nuts (B6).
9. Align the bearings and clamp in place. Insert a temporary shaft and weld the plates to their posts in proper position.

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Base Frame Assembly

By necessity I began with the floor frame as the mechanics of each subsequent upward addition had to be worked out as I progressed toward a workable system. Even with the measured drawings completed, it still seems the logical beginning point.

Considerable variation is possible in the base as long as the upper structure can be securely attached. The length of the front and back rails will determine the width of the machine. The 17” width was chosen so that I could lay the machine on it’s side in my pickup bed and close the cover. However, the machine transports quite nicely in the assembled upright position secured with ratchet straps. There is plenty of mass in the Bridge/Flywheel assembly to keep the center of gravity low without an especially heavy base frame. I wanted to be able to close the bed to keep other equipment protected.

Cut/Purchase List: Refer to drawing Base Frame Top View.

AP1. Anvil Post (1), 37” of 4.5” i.d. SC40 Standard Black Welded Pipe.
AP1. a Torch cut a parabolic shape Drift Drop Window, if desired, and fold in on the bottom hinge and weld the perimeter. This also prevents things from falling to the bottom inside the anvil post.
AP2. Anvil Foot-Post Braces (2), 1” x 1.5 x 12”, square tube.
AP3. Seat Bracket Sleeve, (1), 5 “ of 2” Square tube.
AP3a. Locking Bolt/Nut, 1/2”-13 x 1.5”. This can be added at a later stage.
AP4. Front Flywheel Stop, (1), 5.5” x 1.5” square tube. This can be added at a later stage.
AP5. Anvil Back Post Brace, 16” of 1.5” Square Tube.
AP7. Anvil Foot Spacers, 1.5” square tube (2)
AP8. Anvil Foot, 1/4” x 4” x 15” (2)
AP9. Center Anvil Post Base Plate, 1/4” x 4” x 15” (1)
BF1. Front Rail, 16” of 1.5” x 1.5” Square Tube
BF2. Back Rail, 16” of 1.5” x 1.5” Square Tube
BF3 Side Rail, R, 40” of 1.5” x 1.5” Square Tube
BF4 Side Rail, L, 40” of 1.5” x 1.5” Square Tube
BF5 Anvil Post Base Plate, 1/4” x 15.5” x 17” Plate
BF6 Bridge Post Base Plate, 3/8” x 4” x 5” Flat Bar
BF7 Transverse Base Rail, 16” of 1.5” x 1.5” Square Tube
BF8 Spring Axle of 3/4” SC40, 19”
Standard Black Welded Pipe, o.d 1.050”.
BF9 Spring Axle Bearing, (2) L & R, 1.5” of 1.25” SC40 Standard Black Welded pipe, i.d. 1.38”.

My Assembly Sequence:

1. Weld the Side Rails (BF3 & BF4) and End Rails (BF1 & BF2) into a rectangle (square carefully). Note that the end rails fit between the ends of the side rails. Weight or clamp so the weld beads do not warp the base and it remains flat. Consider points to place holes for concrete anchors if secure floor fixation is planned. My primary machine sits on a stall mat which prevents “walking” and there are no floor bolts.

2. Weld the Center Anvil Post Base Plate (AP9) to the center of BF1. Tack the anvil post in place but plan for easy removal after the position of the braces has been established.

3. Tack weld the Lateral Anvil Post Feet AP8 to AP9 at about 45º angles and weld the AP7 foot spacers.

4. Weld the Transverse Brace Rail (BF7) 5” inside of each end of the base frame.

5. Weld the Bridge Post Base Plates (BF6R & BF6L) in 16.5” from the end back. They are not essential, as the post can be placed directly on the floor. They do provide extra welding line length.

6. Weld the Spring Axle Bearings (BF8) on top of the Back Rail on each side.

With a solid base it is now possible to start building upward. The Bridge-Tower is next.

http://www.persimmonforge.com/

Pedal Hammer Plans Introduction

This pedal hammer was built after considerable planning and experimenting. I use it frequently and I am quite happy with it's operation. Like most other machines it's construction process and it's operation is inherently dangerous and requires considerable skill and vigilance to mitigate risk.

This information is made available as an explanation of "how I did it" and is not intended to be a recommendation to others. It is offered without charge but if anyone finds the information useful and wants to send me a few bucks to keep me encouraged about continuing this sort of posting - Super!"

If you would like to have me arrange to have a machine built for you or certain parts made, assembled or in kit form, contact me for a price quote firm for 30 days.

This is a list of YouTube posts which explain some features and uses of the machine:
Persimmon Forge - Part 1 - (2006)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_gTtxZI1yQ
Persimmon Forge - Part 2 - Pedal Hammer Features
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVwlDYFoqrU&feature=related
Persimmon Forge - Part 3 - Pedal Hammer Use
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xG9SPsTu8f4&feature=related
Persimmon Forge - Part 4 - Chasing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suWyOTzk9hU&feature=related
Persimmon Forge - Part 5 - Chasing & Tools
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQOsFybYKYI&feature=related
Persimmon Forge - Part 6 - Tool Making for Chasing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yECzLrqdVHg&feature=related
Persimmon Forge - Part 7 - Chasing & Repoussé/work samples
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-32a0hT8uHE&feature=related

I plan to prepare further video clips of various projects for future publication.

I will post the details of my construction plan in a dozen or so installments which will include detailed drawings, the cut list and assembly information:

00. PH Plans Introduction ƒ
01. Base Frame ƒ
02. Bridge-Tower ƒ
03. Flywheel Assembly ƒ
04. Pedal Drive ƒ
05. Turnbuckle/Yoke ƒ
06. Anvil/Post ƒ
07. Balance Springs ƒ
08. Swing Arms ƒ
09. Lug Bracket ƒ
10. Hammer Assembly ƒ
11. Adjustable Seat ƒ
12. Foot Rest ƒ

http://www.persimmonforge.com/